Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.
Beauty is the disinterested one without which the ancient world refused to understand itself a word which both imperceptibly and yet unmistakably has bid farewell to our new world a world of interests leaving it to its own avarice and sadness.
